Front End Rebuild

So it has been a long time since I last posted on this blog. Since the last post over seven years ago, I've done many updated on the Type II and basically got it back on the road. Engine, clutch, completed rear-end work, welding a new floor in cabin, reupholstered seats...the list goes on and on.

After jacking the front end, I saw there was tremendous resistance on the the front driver's wheel. Bearing or a frozen caliper first came to mind. So a simple bearing replacement was in line for the transporter.

But nothing is easy on a fifty--year-old vehicle. I pulled the wheels, removed the hubs and discs, and after talking with my mechanic, figured why not dig a bit deeper into the repairs.

So what started as a bearing replacement quickly evolved into replacing bearings, races, seals, brake calipers, lines, ball joints, tie rod ends, regreasing the torsion bars - basically rebuilding the entire from end. I'll try to post its progress periodically.

The first step was to remove the road wheels, The dust cap, remove the retaining nut (driver's side has reverse threads) which requires loosening the 7mm allen head.

This also required (for me, at least) removing the caliper (to be rebuilt), backing place (to be cleaned up and painted). Ziploc bags were useful for both old parts and those to be cleaned and reused.

There are five parts to be services on the hub: the out bearing and race, inner bearing and race, and the inner seal. The bearing popped up; the seal came up with tapping it with a wooden dowel and rubber mallet; the races I took to my mechanic and be removed and replaced these in short order.
Since I stripped one of the disc to hub bolts, I purchased four new ones from JBugs (part 98-4372) for the reinstall.

More later, but this is the first step in the lengthy project.

CV Joints II

I finally got three of the CV Joints off. The last one will need a gear puller I think they do not need to be replaced. The last one will probably have the issues. I will need to replace all the boots and the bolts. Most suppliers seem to carry the 12-spline bolts versus the 6mm Allen bolts. I believe they need to be torqued to 25ft=lbs. So far it's been neither as difficult nor as messy as I'd anticipated. So far.

CV Joints

Here is the worst of the CV Joints. The outer driver's side. So it looks like a damaged boot was replaced after dirt has already gotten into it. I doused all the bolts with PB Blaster.

Te passenger's side bolts came loose with nary an issue. Tomorrow I will attempt the driver's side. I let this PB soak overnight in hope of not living a nightmare of stripping one. Twelve down, twelve to go.

The more I dig into the bus, the more things I find to replace. I am also replacing the exhaust and master cylinder, which of course will add to the items to replace, such as reservoirs and hoses and gaskets.

The list of critical items is dwindling though. It will hopefully spend time this summer in  the Cascades.

 

Rust

I need to tackle the rust problem on the underbody. It's mostly surface rust, and I plan to see what the people on the Type II site will say. I have yet to overwhelm them with inane questions. I've gleaned much from them.

Here is a picture looking towards the engine from the driver's side rear quarter.

The master cylinder should arrive shortly. Lot's of momentum, and I usually go in spurts working on the bus. Let it ride. For now, at least.

Return

Yes, I have not posted in many months. The main object of this year was to get the vee-dub to the Subdued Stringband Jamboree. And I did. But now the Weekender is back in the garage ready for a wave of work. I started with a new exhaust. An Empi from jBugs in Oceanside. And the list is still long. (I took it to a mechanic to have him assess the situation and adjust the carbs.)

Once the exhaust is on, the for CV joints need to be replaced. Sounds like a fun way to spend a rainy weekend. The brakes too need some love. I have a master cylinder coming up from jBugs too - not sure why jBugs, it seems I order from everyone: Bus Boys, Bus Depot, M&T Manufacturing (probably my favorite), and of course, West Coast Metric.

Oh and the cab floor needs to be welded, as well as the battery tray. And I'll probably pick up the SVDA distributor from aircooled.net when the old income tax check comes my way. 

Some day I will get to the exterior, but right now it is very solid with little rust. Unfortunately, it still has many original parts, but it has great bones.

Engine Compartment Seal

Here is the seal that I inserted tonight in the engine bay. It goes between the engine tin and the body and basically helps in the cooling process of the engine. I read how difficult it was to put this on and two people facilitated the process, but the seal went in quite easily. The smooth side faced down and I started at the front near the firewall. I fed some of the seal in the front through the topside of the engine, although when acessible,, it was easirer to feed the seal through from the bottom .

That probably makes no sense, but if you're lying underneath it on a Friday night, you;ll get the idea.

Some real progress is being made. Wonder if it will be roadworthy (and presentable) by the ski-to-sea parade?

BMW

Tonight was not a VW night. Spring is finally here and the weekends are sunny and warming, so I need to get the oil changed on a '75 BMW R60/6 that I have. This required dropping the pan. A tiny chunk of metal (about 2mm) was found in this pan. I wonder what its source was. Should I be alarmed?

I'll adjust the valves too, and later change the gear box, final drive and shaft oil. I only put a couple hundred miles on the bike each summer, and it pretty much is half the 1700cc motor on the Weekender.

I need to play a little. And this weekend I hope to.